1997 Jan's Journeys West Coast Roadtrip!

Sat. afternoon 9/27/97 thru Mon. morning 9/29/97
Avalon, Santa Catalina Island, California

Sun. 9/28/97

...where falls not hail, or rain, or any snow, nor ever wind blows loudly; but it lies deep-meadowed, happy, fair with orchard lawns and bowery hollows crown'd with summer seas, where I will heal me of my grievous wound...
"Idylls of the King"
Alfred Lord Tennyson

This is Tennyson's lyrical description of the radiant spot to which Arthur, as he lay dying, said he would journey for his final peace. I've always adored that exquisite poem; but as an English major, I'm chagrined to admit that I'd forgotten that the name of that mythical place was Avalon (from the Celtic word Avilion). I remember now...we're there! Avalon is the only city on Santa Catalina Island; it covers 1 square mile and is home to 3,100 full-time residents. The tiny town received its romantic name in 1887 from the sister-in-law of the island's owner of the time (following several previous designations including the Catalina Indians' equally-lovely appellation, "The Bay of Seven Moons"). The island has a special significance in my life, even though I've never visited before; so I was doubly excited to journey at last to this fabled site.

Santa Catalina is part of California's channel island chain, located roughly 20 miles offshore from L.A. Visitors aren't allowed to bring in cars, so access is by boat or air. We took one of the Catalina Express Company's fiberglass vessels which make the channel crossing in a little over one hour. Passage on the larger, steel-hulled boats, takes about 2 hours. Long Beach and San Pedro are the starting points for these boats; and the Catalina Flyer, a catamaran which crosses in about 75 minutes, departs from Newport Beach. We discovered that islanders are also restricted when it comes to automobiles. The number of cars has been limited, so new residents must put their names on a waiting list in order to receive a permit for their own auto; clearing that list takes 10-11 years!! The transportation alternative is the golf cart (the "Catalina Limo")! Tourists may rent them, and residents and businesses use them extensively (even the number of those compact vehicles has been limited to one per household). All of these little carriers buzzing around reminded me of when we lived in Phoenix and dodged the migrating snowbirds in their street-legal golf carts; here as there, some people seem to think of them as a Disneyland toy...watch out for those race-driver wannabes!!!!

As we approached the island, our first sight was of the striking and imposing Casino. We soon learned that this magnificent building has never seen gambling, as suggested by a modern interpretation of its name. Rather, the word "casino" is taken from an Italian term meaning "festive area". Construction was begun in 1928, and it was the first completely round, steel-reinforced structure built in the U.S. in modern times. It was also the first acoustically engineered theater in America, with 10 cone-shaped mural panels forming the acoustical system. The famous ballroom (which originally held 2,500 couples) was the territory of all of the Big Bands of the era; a radio program was broadcast nationally, bringing Avalon and Catalina widespread attention. Tours are conducted of the historic building, and entertainment events are still scheduled in the art deco ballroom.

Avalon is a singular combination of the prototypical funky California beach town and a sleepy seaside village with narrow lanes and houses ascending steep hills. The oceanside "front street" (Crescent) holds a nostalgic collection of shops, restaurants, cafes (one diner is even called "Eat at Joe's")...and no chain fast-food establishments or stores. The green "pleasure pier" is lined with booths offering diving, snorkeling, boat excursions, plus the iconic building containing Rosie's Seafood. We took a glass bottom boat...one of the endearing remnants of Catalina's past. The first tours began in the 1890s and still delight passengers today with views of the delicately-colored kelp beds and fishy denizens of Lovers' Cove (as well as deep-diving, showoff Cormorants). Nighttime trips follow the Catalina Flying Fish, who are attracted by the lights of the boats. This unique species has four "wings" (fins) as opposed to other flying fish who have only two; vibrating their tails, they leap off of the tops of waves to begin their flight.

Another beloved place in Avalon is the Holly Hill House. This unusual hillside home, with its green and red striped conical cupola, was built in 1889 by Peter Gano with the assistance of his reportedly blind horse, Mercury. It took them two years to bring the building supplies up from the beach and construct the residence. He called his home "Look Out Cottage" but only had room to inscribe the words "Look Out Cot" in the small stones above the main door (we couldn't figure out what a "cot" was until a shopkeeper explained the history). The story we heard contends that Mr. Gano was building this house for his sweetheart, who had found another love by the time he finished his labors!! Subsequent owners renamed the house in honor of the holly that grows in abundance on the property. It is still privately owned but is opened for tours at certain times during the year.

Catalina's distant past is as fascinating as its more recent history. In 1542 it was encountered by Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo (a Portuguese explorer in a Spanish ship), who was met by friendly Indians upon his arrival. He named the island San Salvador (in honor or his flagship). After his departure, 60 years passed before another explorer landed. In 1602 General Sebastian Viscaino was on an expedition to the "Kingdom of California" when he landed the day before the Feast of St. Catherine; he therefore named the island Santa Catalina. By this time there were about 2,500 Indians living in orderly villages throughout the valleys. The island was once again forgotten by the outside world until fur traders were attracted by the sea otters living along Catalina's coast (the merciless hunters went on to decimate the population of these wonderful creatures). From then on, the isolated spot changed ownership several times. In the 1890s it became a popular destination for tourists (with sportfishing, tent villages for vacationers, and several hotels under construction). An island company which initially produced roofing tile and other utilitarian products soon become well known for its beautiful decorative tiles and pottery, and the originals are highly-prized collectors' items today.

Following a disastrous fire in 1915, William Wrigley of Chicago (and chewing-gum fame) purchased a majority interest from the financially troubled owners of the Santa Catalina Island Company. This was a fortuitous event in Catalina's history since Mr. Wrigley and his wife Ada fell totally in love with the scenic island and devoted themselves to protecting and preserving its unique character. Their splendid mansion on Mt. Ada, which receives the island's first sunlight of the morning and the last rays in the evening (per Mr. Wrigley's stipulation for his homesite), is now a luxurious B&B. His baseball team, the Chicago Cubs, conducted spring training on Catalina for many years; if the boys weren't performing up to standard during practice, he'd request that they "come up and say goodnight"...meaning they had to run up the numerous steps to his front door, pay their respects, then run down again! Mr. Wrigley's memorial (initially his mausoleum, until his body was moved to Forest Lawn Cemetery in the L.A. area) was constructed following his death in 1932, built mostly from materials taken from the island. This sublimely peaceful spot overlooks the bay and a beautiful Botanical Garden which highlights the endemic plants of the Channel Islands and Catalina itself. The Wrigley family has given the Santa Catalina Island Conservancy, which is dedicated to safeguarding Catalina's natural state, a gift which comprises approximately 86% of the island in order to perpetuate the guardianship of this incredible resource.

We've stayed at so many gorgeous B&Bs and Inns on this Roadtrip, each with its own distinctive personality and ambience. Well...our luck ran out; it had to happen sooner or later, and it happened at the Glenmore Plaza Hotel! If you don't wish to read about our woeful saga, we've provided pretty pictures of the rest of Catalina for your enjoyment...then you can skip to the next paragraph! Our first clue should have been the fact that we requested several times (by phone and by e-mail) that our confirmation and boat reservation information be mailed to us before our Sept. 2 Roadtrip departure date; it was not to be! Upon our arrival we found a run-down hotel with a lot of unrealized potential and a somewhat impassive staff (who's potential is still unknown!). The hotel was built in the 1890s and has hosted Amelia Earhart and Clark Gable, among other luminaries. It is advertised as being "newly renovated", but I guess time is relative in the scheme of its history...I'm almost sure that the hotel has indeed been remodeled at some point since Teddy Roosevelt's visit!! The old building could be lovingly restored with a very charming outcome; of course, we'd be satisfied if the toilet flushed on a consistent basis...yesterday we gave up a lengthy wait for maintenance, and John fixed it himself; this morning it broke once again! When we first checked in, there were no towels in the room. We mentioned this, and we did receive towels later....but no washcloths (my fault; I didn't specify that washcloths would be a nice complement to the towels). Today fresh towels were left in the room after it was cleaned, but...no washcloths; I'm not certain, but I think cloths might be considered an extra. We again requested washcloths, but they hadn't arrived a couple of hours later. Another call to the front desk (I'm sure we're known as "those complainers in 203" by now); the response: "Oh, we thought you were going to come down and pick them up". As I suspected, washcloths are definitely a special order (by the way, we haven't even attempted to obtain a bath mat)!! I think our room might contain one of the glowingly advertised "whirlpool tubs"; our shower door displays a large message referring to a trademarked "in-room steam bath", and the tub does have holes that could be jets (or something else that we'd prefer not to contemplate). Due to the noticeable gap between the tub and the wall, and the growing canker sore on the ceiling above (which seems to be associated with the "in-room steam bath"), we've been afraid to try out the "Jacuzzi"!! The good news is....we have a "deluxe" room!!! I could describe the continental breakfast in the "intimately tree-lined courtyard" (use your imagination!) or the evening wine and cheese (don't even ask!)...but I'll spare you the details!!! Every traveler confronts a fiasco at some time; the Glenmore Plaza fills our quota for the next 10 or 20 years!! Needless to say, I won't be listing their phone number, e-mail address (wouldn't do you any good...they ignore their electronic messages) or URL (although I have a grudging admiration for their web page developer....what a creative way with words and spinmeistering!). For many years we've had a codeword for less than desirable accommodations..."Len's Lodge", owing to an unfortunate experience right after we graduated from college and just before we were married. We now have a new frame of reference!!!!

We therefore launched a quest for a more appropriate place to stay...for your referral (we couldn't abandon you in Avalon without a lodging recommendation) and for our future reference when we return to Catalina, which we definitely will. We found the Hotel Metropole. Actually, it was the first place I contacted; but due to a rather terse and curt e-mail reply to my inquiry, I crossed them off the list (I have a major "thing" about impolite e-mails). After our confinement at the "inn of last resort", we walked over and checked out the Metropole's facilities and rooms. It was quite appealing; the staff was gracious (we'll give the laconic e-mailer the benefit of the doubt); and it's surrounded by a charming courtyard containing restaurants and shops...that's where we'll stay on our next visit! Their phone number is 800-300-8528 (in California) or 800-541-8528 (nationwide), and their URL is http://www.catalina.com/metropole/. It's definitely a "Jan's Journeys" type of place!!

There are many other activities on the island...such as diving and snorkeling, hiking, tours of the rugged inland area, or simply strolling down the romantic streets in the evening. We found Santa Catalina to be a very special destination. King Arthur finally found his Avalon; I journeyed to my Avalon after a lifelong wait; if you travel there, you can make your own memories on this unforgettable little island...and discover your "Avalon"!!

We did indeed return to delightful Catalina, as we promised ourselves, and stayed at the Hotel Metropole.  For an account of that May 2000 journey (and lots more photos), please visit:
http://www.jans-journeys.com/catalina.

>>Next Stop -- B&B Inn of La Jolla, La Jolla, CA
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Copyright © 1997 - 2008: Jan Hight
All photos are the property of Jan & John Hight and may not be copied or used in any way without our written permission.

Published -- September 29, 1997
Last Revision -- Sunday, 13-Aug-2006 03:30:36 GMT