Captivating Kauai

The Hawaiian Islands are our ultimate paradise. Each has its own distinctive personality and appeal, and we adore them all. Kauai, however, is for us the exquisite gem in this breathtaking necklace of islands. True, it’s more quiet and tranquil and doesn’t offer as much night life as its bustling neighbors. For the most extraordinary and incomparable scenery imaginable, though, it is unrivaled. Our yearly plan is to spend a busy week on Maui or Oahu, then fly to our very special island of choice and unwind...relax to the max!

This isn’t to say that there are no activities on Kauai; there’s more than enough to do and see (we’ve always found plenty of diversions - if we can separate ourselves from our condo’s lanai with its spectacular view). The baggage claim area in the Lihue airport offers racks of booklets and brochures that will help you plan your visit to the Garden Isle. Be sure to pick up "Kauai Gold" and "This Week Kauai" (lots of tips, maps and coupons), as well as the "Menu" magazine, which will introduce you to some of the marvelous restaurants.

The most incredible vista on Kauai is the majestic Na Pali ("the cliffs") coastline. These ancient cliffs are unbelievably rugged and at the same time ethereal with their delicate spires and the pervasive, almost indescribable shades of green. Much of this area is accessible only by hiking (the full trail is definitely not for a novice or the unprepared, but there are shorter routes to lookout spots). Two other options for viewing this extraordinary land-and-seascape are by air (on the ubiquitous helicopter, the so-called "state bird") and by sea (several boat tours are available).

Helicopters provide an unequaled (and thrilling) panoramic view of Na Pali as they dart in and out between the cliffs and hover over the sea. Depending upon the length of the tour, you may also descend into the crater of Waialeale (the extinct volcano which formed the island... a very mystical spot where the ali’i, Hawaiian royalty, were buried and also known as one of the two wettest spots on earth, thus the lushness of its foliage); fly through Waimea Canyon (the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific", which is just as remarkable as its larger nickname-sake); glide by waterfalls of unsurpassed beauty (including the twin falls from "Fantasy Island" fame); and float over gorgeous Hanalei Bay. There are several helicopter companies from which to select a tour that meets your desires and budget and which will undoubtedly be one of the most memorable highlights of your visit!

There are also several companies which provide boat tours, ranging from the rubber Zodiac rafts (definitely not for those who seek comfort, dryness, or a stable seat), to various power catamarans, sleek sailboats, and larger vessels. The most scenic tours depart from Hanalei Bay, but this isn’t always possible in the winter months so the departure is Port Allen for much of that time period. Depending upon the weather, the Zodiacs and smaller boats can explore the fascinating sea caves along Na Pali, and almost all make stops for lunch and snorkeling (most anchor off the coast; a few dock at secluded beaches). As with helicopters, there are tours of different lengths, prices and schedules from which to choose the perfect excursion. This is another activity which is not to be missed; sailing or motoring past the striking coastline and the magnificent Na Pali accompanied by playful spinner dolphins or the endangered green sea turtles (even whales in the winter months) is a transcendent experience that shouldn’t be missed and will certainly never be forgotten!!

The main highway circling the island does not go all of the way around; the glorious obstacle is Na Pali! However, you can drive to several scenic areas and attractions, including the aforementioned Waimea Canyon. There are several viewing points as you curve your way through the canyon. One of the loveliest is the Kalalau Lookout near the top. It has a tendency toward fog; but when it’s clear, the view is incomparable looking down the valley, across the water to the island of Niihau (the privately-owned home to Hawaiians who live and work in the "old ways"). Even if you’ve seen Waimea Canyon by air, a drive through it will open new vistas and allow you to experience the canyon in different ways.

There are beaches at the end of the highway in both directions. Both afford stunning views of Na Pali, but they are totally different in character and appearance. Polihale on the west end is a long, hot stretch of relatively deserted sand (reached by driving down a dirt/sand road where tiny Geo Metro rental cars often become impaled on dunes!). Ke’e Beach is at the end of the road on the north side, and it looks like a picture postcard of the choice image of a Hawaiian beach. It is also the starting point for the Na Pali trail, and a short hike up will afford splendid views for those not inclined to make the entire arduous trip. The snorkeling can be very good there, depending on water and wind conditions.

While on the north shore, enjoy the drive back towards Princeville. This is the windward side of the island, and, therefore, receives more rainfall (showers can be expected even in the relatively dry summer months). All of this rainfall makes for the verdant, densely foliated landscape which gives the Garden Isle its name and is a true feast for the senses. "Tunnels" beach along the way is one of the best spots on the island for snorkeling, and the wet and dry caves are nearby (with their legends of the Menehune, the "little people"). Several views will seem familiar if you’ve ever seen the oldie "South Pacific", including Lumahai Beach (beautiful but deadly due to the water conditions....look but don’t swim), and "Bali Hai" itself (the dramatic rock formation actually named Makana, which was transformed by movie magic into the mysterious island offshore). You’ll drive over quaint one-lane bridges leading to the picturesque tiny village of Hanalei. Princeville has many resorts and planned communities in addition to its famous, highly-rated golf courses.

Continuing around the island from Princeville you’ll find Anini Beach, a terrific spot to try windsurfing; the Kilauea lighthouse and surrounding wildlife preserve (with a large and noisy variety of birds); the busy little town of Kapa’a; Smith’s Tropical Paradise, which includes a spacious botanical garden as well as boat trips to the Fern Grotto (this widely-advertised spot is probably a good one-time jaunt on your first visit to Kauai...we’ve never made a repeat visit). There are side roads to waterfalls and other delightful excursions along the way southward. Lihue is the largest city with the usual variety of stores and restaurants, a museum, the big regional mall etc. Old Koloa Town is a charming stop on the way to Poipu. The Poipu area is on the leeward side of the island and has many resorts, a golf course, various land and water activities, and Spouting Horn (a natural blow hole on the coast around which have sprouted many jewelry and craft vendors).

There are other towns around the island, each with its own unique look and feel, but space constraints prevent a full listing....they’re all worth a visit, though!

Luaus are a particularly Hawaiian event that shouldn’t be missed. On Kauai you can choose from several different styles. Each features the traditional emu ceremony (the pig roasted in an underground oven) and a buffet dinner featuring many island dishes. At Smith’s Tropical Paradise you can stroll around the botanical gardens before dinner, which is followed by a large stage show. The Coconut Beach offers a Hawaiian-only style show, which is a nice change from the usual programs featuring entertainment from all of the Pacific islands. Tahiti Nui’s in Hanalei presents an intimate, family-style luau and show.

A few of our favorite restaurants are: Bali Hai, at the Hanalei Bay Resort in Princeville (watching the sunset frame Makana - "Bali Hai", while dining on the expansive open air lanai is a lovely end to any day); The Hanalei Dolphin (with its beautiful riverside location in Hanalei and superb seafood); A Pacific Grill in Kapa’a (award-winning and uniquely prepared Pacific Rim cuisine); Gaylords (at Kilohana Plantation - be sure to ask for a table outside); Brenneckes in Poipu (a real "beach broiler" with delectable sashimi on the Island Pupu Platter....pupu is Hawaiian for appetizer, in case you were getting worried!); and the Friday night seafood buffet at the opulent Princeville Hotel (rather pricy, but well worth it for an unimaginable array of tantalizing treats...the last time we were there, Al and Tipper Gore were dining on the lanai with a full contingent of secret service agents milling about; it’s obviously a well-known spot, with good reason!).

As you’ve probably guessed by now, I could ramble on interminably about Kauai! Please visit our second Kauai article, "Kauai by Land, Sea and Air", for updated tips, suggestions and lots more photos. You can also take a peek at our 1998 journeys to Kauai in the "Hawaii '98" and "Hawaii '99" additions to Jan's Journeys. Let me close this by saying that anyone who is still apprehensive about the aftereffects of Hurricane Iniki in the early 1990s may be assured...the island has recovered miraculously. It is still, and will always be, a perfect little jewel in the Pacific; and once you visit there, it will call you back again and again!!

You can do even more paradise dreaming with a photo reverie of Maui and Kauai...Hawaii 2000!!

Copyright © 1995 - 2008: Jan Hight
All photos are the property of Jan & John Hight and may not be copied or used in any way without our written permission.

Published -- August 12, 1995
Last Revision -- Sunday, 13-Aug-2006 03:22:35 GMT