Kauai by Land, Sea and Air

Those who have visited our Jan's Journeys article entitled "Captivating Kauai" already know how much John and I adore that enticing island. Return to the Garden Isle with us now and experience its grandeur by land, sea and air!

The most dramatic method of exploring this exceptionally dramatic island is by air, and there are several excellent helicopter companies from which to chose. We selected Hawaii Helicopters on our May '96 visit since they fly out of the Princeville Airport near our timeshare on the glorious North Shore. Many companies provide a video of the tour...some are taken during your own flight. Hawaii Helicopters takes this a step further with an additional camera inside the cabin which records your very own reactions to the splendor beneath your temporary wings (I still wonder if the inside camera has ever been switched on at the moment of a passenger's unfortunate need for that "little bag")! There aren't many souvenirs that can surpass re-living your flight through the video and listening again to your pilot's narration of what lies below, along with the accompanying stories and legends. Just hearing the music that was playing when your helicopter crested a verdant hill and dipped into a lush valley brings the moment to life again.

Most of the helicopter tours overfly the major points of interest, and there are tours of various lengths and prices. Some of the incredible sights you'll see include Waimea Canyon with its ever-changing colors; the crater of Waialeale, the ancient volcano which formed Kauai and is an awe-inspiring and ethereal spot with a sense of the mystical (due in great part to the fact that it's a sacred location in Hawaiian lore and a former home of Madame Pele); the indescribably gorgeous Na Pali coastline with its fluted cliffs and exquisite valleys; lovely Hanalei Bay; and the multi-faceted landscape which ranges from taro fields to rain forest, from Poipu to Princeville, from mountain to sea, from remote wilderness to resort playgrounds. No matter how long your flight, the images will last forever.

Another exhilarating way to view Na Pali ( "the cliffs") up close is, of course, by water. There are many boating options, ranging from Zodiac rafts to sleek sailboats to power catamarans of various sizes. Select whatever method fits your preference, budget and comfort zone; all will provide seascapes of unbelievable beauty and views of sea caves, cliffs and mountains that truly defy description. We've taken the power cats of Na Pali Adventures several times, and they've never failed to provide an exciting and unforgettable trip from Hanalei Bay up the coast (departure point and route taken may vary with seasonal weather). Part of the company's name is Eco Tours, and they devote much more than lip service to this concept by providing education about the island and the sea....but these aren't dry lectures in any sense of the word!! The crew members obviously love what they're doing, and they want their passengers to have the most enjoyable tour possible and also take home an appreciation of this unique and fragile environment. As you cruise by (or into) the misty sea caves, past waterfalls that descend hundreds of feet from their lofty origins down to the sea, beside sculpted cliffs that are so green and so delicate that they seem to be an impossible illusion (a very different perspective than that provided by helicopter), you may very well be accompanied by exuberant spinner dolphins who seem to find great fun in "playing" with the boats and the occasional sea turtle poking up an inquisitive head (and the unbeatable bonus of possible whale sightings in season)! Most boat tours stop for snorkeling in water so incredibly blue you'll almost suspect the use of food coloring the first time you see it! Take along a disposable underwater camera...the water is usually so clear that you'll get great pictures of that humuhumunukunukuapua'a (the State fish) swimming beside you. Whatever type of boat you choose, you'll often daydream of Na Pali from your office-bound desk...I won't tell your boss if you don't tell mine!!

Even though it isn't possible to drive around the entire island (due to delightful obstacles such as Na Pali), there is much of Kauai that can be enjoyed by car. In fact, experiencing the unique angle achieved from the air or by sea enhances the land-based viewpoint. An excellent area to compare air, sea and land visions is between Hanalei Bay and Ke'e Beach on the North Shore...if you've gotten the impression that we're slightly partial to that area of the island, you're absolutely right...the scenery is unrivaled! At any spot along this picturesque road (which is dappled by one-way bridges and dazzling beaches) you can view the same striking panorama in an entirely different manner than by helicopter or boat.

Along the way you'll come to an area that can only be reached by land and is definitely worth a stop...Limahuli Garden. This wasn't mentioned in our previous article, "Captivating Kauai", because it was opened to the public just after our visit to the islands last year. It was a private garden for many years before a very generous gift by the family made it a part of the National Tropical Gardens. You can opt for a guided tour (which we recommend, for your first visit at least) or take off on your own exploration with a descriptive booklet. The wonderful profusion of flowers and plants, the stunning vistas of the sea (we even saw a procrastinating whale hanging around after the normal season had ended), the serene setting, and the Hawaiian folklore and local stories (such as tales about nearby Makana, which means "gift", more widely known by its movie name "Bali Hai")... all of these aspects add up to a particularly pleasing experience.

Return to the enchanting town of Hanalei for a definite stop of indefinite length (I can see the possibility of someone making a brief visit and never leaving; we're certainly tempted every year)! There are all sorts of small and charming shops and restaurants. One of our very favorite restaurants is there, the Dolphin (enjoy delectable seafood while watching kayaks drift down the Hanalei River), and for a quick lunch there's Bubba's which has a location in Kapa'a and a second home in Hanalei, as does one of my very favorite boutiques, Tropical Tantrum - which isn't pictured here because my photographer keeps hoping I'll forget it exists! That won't happen; in fact, the loyalty of many other such devotees has enabled the owner to expand to Maui, eliciting cheers from me and groans from the photographer!!

From Hanalei it's a matter of minutes (and a final one-way bridge) to Princeville. This is home to us; we own a timeshare at the Makai Club, and we fell in love with this spot the very minute we saw it late one evening several years ago. We caught the scent of that singular spicy-earthy fragrance and felt the night air that seemed like velvet brushing against our skin, and we were hooked!!! Princeville has two golf courses (including the highly-rated Prince), shops, and excellent restaurants like Bali Hai....one of our favorite sites for a sunset dinner on the lanai overlooking Hanalei Bay and "Bali Hai" (which you'll recall from Limahuli Garden is actually named Makana). There's also the Cafe Hanalei at the gorgeous Princeville Hotel, which provides an elegant setting with breathtaking views and scrumptious food.

From Princeville the road continues on to Anini Beach, a renowned windsurfing location. Companies such as Hanalei Sailboards teach classes there, and the instructors are so good that even I (the non-jock) was able to sail! The Kilauea lighthouse is nearby, with its bird sanctuary and windswept sea views. Our favorite memory of that site comes from our very first visit. As we were driving out the exit, we saw two Albatross in the midst of their very intricate mating dance. John quickly stuck the camcorder out the car window, and we didn't realize until we watched the video later that the song playing in the background on the car radio was, appropriately, "I'd Like to Get to Know You"!!

A drive through Waimea Canyon with its many scenic overlooks will add texture to the impressions gained from the air. The subtle color gradations are more apparent (as are the wild goats), and the view looking down the Kalalau Valley to the Pacific is incomparable when the fog lifts (although it can inspire other visitors to spout notions about the "aura of the island"...to each his own!). Koke'e State Park is a pleasant place to stop...enjoy the cafe, gift shop, small museum, and the roving band of affable resident chickens.

Waialeale crater is one area that can only be relished from the air. In fact, it usually isn't even possible to see the highest point on the island from the ground since it's almost always shrouded in clouds, as befits the wettest spot on earth. On our last visit, however, it appeared in all its majesty one afternoon, and we were treated to a spectacular glimpse of this hallowed spot (the Hawaiian ali'i, or royalty, were buried here). This lack of clouds was in direct opposition to our first helicopter trip into Waialeale on our first visit to Kauai.....there had been so much rain that the furrowed green walls of the crater were embellished with hundreds of waterfalls everywhere we looked in an extraordinary 360-degree display. We've seen waterfalls (and rainbows) on every subsequent trip into the crater, but we've never forgotten that first astounding sight. How amazing that what was once, albeit long ago, the fire pit home to Pele is now a luxuriant showcase of "rippling waters" (an English translation of waialeale).

There are many other marvelous things to see and do (not to mention buy and eat!) on Kauai...too numerous to be mentioned here; but there are further tips in "Captivating Kauai". You can also take a peek at our 1998 and 1999 journeys to Kauai in the "Hawaii '98" and "Hawaii '99" additions to Jan's Journeys. Each traveler will find his or her own very special spots, those hidden "finds" that will be cherished as everlasting memories (and we'd love to hear about yours). The one last bit of advice we offer is this: at the end of another perfect day on this little emerald of an island, stop and enjoy the wondrous sunset!!!

Now you can do a bit of  paradise dreaming with a photo reverie of Maui and Kauai...Hawaii 2000!!

Copyright © 1996 - 2008: Jan Hight
All photos are the property of Jan & John Hight and may not be copied or used in any way without our written permission.

Published -- July 14, 1996
Last Revision -- Tuesday, 06-Mar-2007 05:07:12 GMT